The Duffel Coat: The Most Democratic Coat in Menswear

Picture this: It's dawn on a Royal Navy frigate somewhere in the frigid North Atlantic. The air is thick with fog, your breath clouds in front of you, and the relentless spray of salt water coats everything in a fine, cold mist. On watch, sailors pull their hoods tight, their frozen, gloved hands fumbling not with delicate buttons, but with thick wooden toggles on jute rope—the only fastening practical enough for these brutal conditions.

This is the world the duffel coat was born into: a world of pure, unadorned utility.

And yet, somehow, this humble military garment would go on to become a civilian legend. The duffel coat is a study in contrasts—a piece of outerwear worn with equal authenticity by decorated officers and rebellious students, by poets and prep-schoolers, by romantics and revolutionaries. It's a coat that was never designed to be fashionable, yet it achieved a rare kind of iconic style through its honesty and functionality.

Welcome to the story of the most democratic coat in menswear.

The story of the duffel coat begins not on the high seas, but in the small Flemish town of Duffel, Belgium. Yes, the coat is literally named after a town. From the 18th century, this modest Belgian town specialized in producing a coarse, thick, and hard-wearing woolen cloth known as "duffel." This fabric, originally worn by Europe's poor (because rich people had better options), was destined for greatness.

The timeline of the duffel's rise:

When a decorated war hero makes your coat famous, you've officially made it.

After the war, a massive surplus of these coats flooded the civilian market. Suddenly, the weight of naval history was available to anyone with a few pounds to spare. And that's when things got interesting.

Let's break down the features that make this coat unmistakable. To appreciate the duffel is to appreciate design born from pure necessity.

The coat's most defining feature. Originally, they were simple wooden toggles passed through thick hemp rope loops—easy to fasten and unfasten with frozen, gloved hands on a rolling deck. Try doing that with buttons when your fingers are numb and the ship is pitching in a storm. Impossible.

In 1953, the brand Gloverall refined this for the civilian market, substituting jute rope with leather ties and wood with elegant buffalo horn toggles. This remains a hallmark of quality versions today. There's an undeniable, tactile charm to them—a satisfying, quiet clack that a zipper could never replicate.

Toggles are the duffel coat's signature. Without them, you just have a hooded wool coat. With them, you have an icon.

Generously oversized, it was designed to fit over a naval cap. When pulled up against the wind, it creates a warm, private space—practical and iconic in equal measure. A throat tab collar, closed with two buttons, offers further protection from the elements.

The hood is what makes you look like you're either about to recite poetry in a windswept field or command a naval vessel. There's no in-between.

The silhouette is a roomy, boxy, knee-length cut, designed for movement and layering over a uniform. Two large patch pockets sit at the hips, perfect for stuffing your hands into when you've forgotten your gloves (again).

A double layer of cloth reinforces the shoulders, adding water repellency and preventing wear from carrying equipment—a detail straight from the shipyards. The coat has a tangible presence. It's not trying to be sleek or modern. It's trying to keep you warm and dry, and it succeeds spectacularly.

When the war ended, the duffel coat's second life began. In the 1950s and 60s, students across Britain and the United States discovered mountains of military surplus available for cheap. And the duffel coat? It was a perfect fit for the burgeoning Ivy League ethos.

Why students loved it:

It was democratic. The same coat had been worn by officers and enlisted men alike, making it a symbol of egalitarianism. In a world obsessed with class distinctions, here was a coat that didn't care about your rank.

It was unpretentious. This wasn't a coat your father, the banker, would wear to the office. It was rugged, authentic, and carried a hint of anti-establishment rebellion. It said, "I'm more interested in ideas than appearances."

It fit the "studied casualness" aesthetic. The preppy look was all about appearing effortlessly put-together without seeming to try too hard. The duffel, with its military heritage and no-nonsense design, was perfect for this.

By the 1970s, British intellectuals and activists had also embraced the coat, cementing its association with a certain kind of thoughtful, academic non-conformity. If you wore a duffel coat, you probably had opinions about Sartre and weren't afraid to share them.

The duffel's image was immortalized in film:

The duffel became the coat of cold libraries, windswept university quads, and late-night debates in smoky dorm rooms. It was worn by everyone from philosophy students to the rowing team, proving that military utility and academic charm were not so different after all. Both worlds required practical, no-nonsense clothing that could withstand the elements.

From its military-issue roots, the duffel has been interpreted by dozens of brands, ranging from accessible heritage makers to the highest echelons of luxury fashion. Here are the ones worth knowing about.

Founded in 1951 by Freda and Harold Morris, Gloverall was the first company to bring the duffel coat to the civilian market after buying up military surplus. Their 1953 refinement—adding buffalo horn toggles, leather keepers, and a distinctive tartan check lining—created the archetype of the modern duffel.

Their classic "Morris" and "Monty" models are made from an Italian 80% wool/20% polyamide blend and come in seven color options. If you want the definitive civilian duffel coat, this is it.

Though the brand name dates to 1987, its lineage traces back to the Ideal Clothing Company, founded in 1860. They claim to be the oldest surviving duffel coat producer, chosen by the British Admiralty in 1896. That's a pedigree you can't fake.

Still made in England, the brand emphasizes sustainability, using premium recycled wool in 95% of their toggle coats. Their Classic Fit model features an Italian 70% wool/30% polyester blend with genuine horn toggles. In Italy, the coat is often known simply as a "Montgomery," which is the ultimate compliment—when your brand name becomes the generic term for the product.

A contemporary maker that proudly produces its coats in London. A classic duffel made from a double-faced 70% wool/30% synthetic blend with buffalo horn toggles and leather keepers. They offer a wide range of colors, including camel, navy, and British racing green.

The standard-bearers of American Ivy style offer their own faithful interpretations. The Brooks Brothers version is 100% wool with a removable hood (for those rare occasions when you don't want to look like a naval officer).

The J.Press coat is made in England and features traditional ram's horn toggles. Both are excellent choices for the American preppy who wants to honor the coat's Ivy League heritage.

Here's what makes the duffel coat special: it has gracefully moved through vastly different worlds without ever losing its soul.

Its military roots are founded on egalitarianism—the same coat for all ranks. Its adoption by student culture was fueled by affordability and a rejection of fussy, class-based style. Its longevity as a preppy staple is a testament to its ability to transcend trends and social strata.

There is a profound humility to the duffel coat. Its simple toggles, functional design, and unpretentious fabric speak of a time when clothing was a tool first and a statement second. It was never meant to be fashionable, but it became iconic anyway.

From the cold, unforgiving decks of naval warships to the ivy-covered quads of New England campuses and the bustling streets of modern cities, the duffel has remained a steadfast companion. It doesn't care if you're an admiral or a freshman. It doesn't care if you're reading Hemingway or just trying to stay warm on your way to class. It just does its job, quietly and effectively.

The duffel coat is proof that the best style often comes from the most honest design. It's a coat that says, "I'm practical, I'm warm, and I have a history worth respecting." It's humble but iconic, democratic in spirit, and utterly timeless.

So whether you're buying a vintage military surplus version for £50 or investing in a luxury Burberry interpretation for nearly $2,000, you're participating in a tradition that spans over a century. You're wearing a coat that has been worn by naval officers in the North Atlantic, students at Oxford and Harvard, poets in smoky cafes, and rebels who believed in something bigger than themselves.

And honestly? That's pretty cool.

Now if you'll excuse me, I need to go find my duffel coat. There's a cold library calling my name, and I have some very important thinking to do about absolutely nothing in particular.

Stay tuned for the next issue where we'll explore another preppy essential that proves the best style is built on substance, not flash!