The History of the Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt

Few garments capture the essence of preppy style as effortlessly as the Oxford Cloth Button Down, better known by its nickname, the OCBD. At first glance, it may seem like just another shirt, but its history reveals why it became a cornerstone of the Ivy League wardrobe. From Scottish looms to American polo fields and finally to the quads of Yale and Harvard, the OCBD is more than fabric and buttons. It’s tradition woven into everyday wear.

The story of the OCDB is really a two-part story: the cloth’s weave and the collar.

Unlike your first thought, the Oxford Cloth has nothing to do with the Oxford University or the town. It originates from Scotland. During the 19th century, Scotland had a thriving textile mill industry, producing high-quality and popular cloths. One of the mills created four new cloths. For marketing purposes, they named them after the four most popular and prestigious universities of the time: Cambridge, Harvard, Yale, and, of course, Oxford. However, only the Oxford Cloth became popular and stood the test of time. 

What makes the Oxford Cloth so special is its basket weave, where two heavier threads pass over two finer weft threads. Typically, the finer weft threads are of a lighter color hue or even white, creating a characteristic pattern style. Not only does this weaving technique bring a visual component, but it also introduces some great practical characteristics to the cloth. The weave creates a soft and breathable yet very durable cloth. The weaving technique also creates somewhat crease-resistant cloth. With all these characteristics, it’s no wonder the cloth became widely popular. 

Thanks to the characteristics of the cloth, athletes picked it up. Especially Polo Players. But the shirts of the time weren’t perfect for polo-playing. During the late 19th century, shirts didn’t have the type of collars we have today. The collars weren’t sewn on; instead, they were attached. These collars were more structured and stiffer. So they weren’t so comfortable when bumping around on a horse. But the players couldn’t just skip attaching the collar since the rules of the sport required a dressed outfit, having no collar was simply against the rules. There was also another problem, the collar flapped around and limited their eyesight. 

So along came the button-down collar. Typically, it has a button on each collar tip, but it’s not uncommon to have a third button in the neck. The buttons meant that the collar stayed in place and did not interrupt any player during the match. Sewing the collar on allowed for a softer and more unstructured collar. 

So the story goes, sometime during the late 19th century, John Brooks of Brooks Brothers watched Polo in England and really liked the shirts. Being the President of Brooks Brothers, he did have some influence on menswear at the time. He hadn’t seen the Oxford Cloth or the collar style before. Apparently, he made sure to get a couple of shirts with him home to the US, and made sure to produce his own. With their own shops around the Ivy League campuses, the new OCBD shirt quickly became popular on campuses. Read the story of Brooks Brothers here.

Today, the OCBD remains one of the most versatile pieces in a man’s wardrobe. It can be dressed up with a blazer and tie, or worn casually with rolled-up sleeves and khakis. What started as a practical solution for polo players became the unofficial uniform of American prep. The Oxford Cloth Button Down isn’t just a shirt. It’s a reminder that true style is built on history, function, and a touch of tradition that never fades.